In case you’ve just returned from a hiatus on the moon, recent weeks have seen world cup fever soar toward pandemic levels, boiling the adrenaline of football fanatics across the globe. There’s an elusive chemistry between Brazil and the game of football, one which would have wafted past my sunglasses, had it not been for the presence of the football fanatic in my own life.
On our recent trip to the ever-glorious Rio de Janeiro (just the name makes me want to wiggle my derriere to the sounds of samba,) Pumpkin redefined romance by deciding that our final night in South America would be best spent at a football stadium – no Caipirinhas on the Copacabana then, just a pitch, a ball and a group of muscular, Brazilian men. Hmm. Perhaps it doesn’t sound so bad after all…
Once in a while, a lady has to put her husband first and in any case, he had already booked it – there was little to be gained from throwing a tantrum. For him, watching a game at the Maracana was something of a bucket list item and as one of the most iconic stadiums in the world and the venue for the upcoming 2014 World Cup Final, it just had to be done.
A football tour at Maracana
If you want to see a game at this world-famous stadium but are unsure where to start, several companies arrange football tours to watch a game at Maracana. (I’ve linked back to the one we used). Tours can either be done privately or in larger groups and involve hotel pick up and drop off. They purchase your tickets and direct you towards the correct entrances for your seats. It’s a stress-free and reasonably safe way to slither your way through the inebriated crowds and if like us, you can’t speak a word of Portuguese, then it certainly makes life easier; although I must confess that a little part of me wondered if it was essentially an overpriced taxi and ticket service.
Money-saving tip: we spotted several vendors along the Copacabana offering similar tours for cheaper prices if you don’t want to plan it too far in advance. Note that these tours are distinguishable from organised tours of the stadium itself, which we hadn’t looked into.
As we drew in closer to the Maracana, the air was humid, the atmosphere electric and the city awash with chanting locals adorned in cherry and black stripes, like sunburnt wasps. These are the official colours of Flamengo, Brazil and Rio’s most popular team and the passion of the supporters is all-consuming. And infectious apparently. I felt like a fully-fledged convert by the end of the night. On this particular evening, they were playing the Bolivian team, Bolivar. Home games are particularly important for Flamengo, as away games in Bolivia have the added challenge of altitude. After a slow first half, the velocity steepened after half time and many gasps and dropped jaws later, tachycardic crowds mourned the 2-2 draw.
How to dress at the Maracana
What should you wear at this event? When I have been to football games in England, the majority of supporters wear the team shirt but you certainly wouldn’t stand out if you didn’t. That night in Rio, I never looked more silly in my purple, flowery T-shirt. At this event, men, women, kids and even most tourists were loyally kitted out in relevant football shirts. I felt like that child who turns up to school on Mufti day, still in their uniform by accident. It’s cheap as chips to buy a scarf or get your face painted with a stripe and it is worth those few pennies to immerse yourself in the enthralling atmosphere.
Once we were there, we became rapidly swept up in the rapture even without the attire. The fans were pacing up and down with high fives at every goal and if they were swearing the way I had observed back home, we didn’t know it because it was in Portuguese! If you are an “early to bed and early to rise” sort, then this is not the place for you with most games occurring late at night – ours started at 10.30pm! Fast food and drinks were available at the interval and much like most stadiums in the world, were rather overpriced so you may wish to bring your own snacks.
Safety at Maracana
Contrary to what I had expected, the environment felt safe, the crowds cohesive and if there was any disturbance, we certainly didn’t witness it. Left to my own devices (and trust me I tried), I would most definitely have plucked out a fancy restaurant to celebrate the final night of an epic trip but you know, we can eat a fancy meal in another city at another time; or at home in London for that matter. It would have been a serious travel faux-pas to have sacrificed this opportunity, our one and only chance to sit in the seats that a lucky few will be glued to soon, eyes fixated on the trophy of trophies – The World Cup. I’d say this more often if I wasn’t so darn stubborn but sometimes, Pumpkin really does just get it right.
Have you ever been to a football match on your travels (or soccer as my trans-Atlantic friends might say)? I’d love to hear about your experiences!
Part of the #SundayTraveler Link Up
Why Waste Annual Leave? 
special time to be at that stadium! great blog!
Thank you! I’m so glad I went and saw a game just a few months before the World Cup, as it was an amazing feeling to be at the stadium! Thank you so much for reading 🙂
I’m not a huge football fan but the atmosphere must be incredible!
Thank you! I’m not normally that into it either but at the Euro and World Cup tournaments, I get caught up in the atmosphere but the Brazilian supporters were so enthused that I got totally absorbed in it whilst I was there! Thanks for commenting 🙂
Wow..thats an incredible thing to do…i van see men in my family getting hot by football fever..so i know how it is. It has always been my bro’s dream to see the world cup at btzail..n this time he made it… i am sure u must have had a lot of fun too..
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Thanks so much for reading and commenting 🙂 I’m so glad your brother is heading to the World Cup – must be an amazing feeling to be out there during the tournament! We had a great time, though I would certainly have loved a chance to be there during the World Cup itself!
I am not very big into sports but Ethan loves pretty much all sports and his dream would be to travel to all the MLB baseball stadiums. We were in Munich last year during some major soccer championship and it was crazy – a fun environment to witness.
Very cool post! We love watching football/soccer while traveling and have had some of our most authentic and fun experiences doing so. The Maracana would be right up at the top of my list of stadiums to see…very jealous! Thanks for sharing and safe travels!
How cool- watching a game at what is now a huge point of focus!
That first shot is beautiful
Thank you! 🙂 Yes I’m not normally all that into live sports but being in such a famous stadium in a new city with the excitement of the crowds could convert most people I think!!
Sounds like a cool and memorable way to end your trip in Brazil. 10:30 is so late for a game! I’d probably be a zombie by then. I went to a football game when I was living in Budapest. I’ve never been to one before and it was fairly to be expected. Lots of chanting, cheering and a bit of jeering. All around fun except for the bit where I was freezing cause it was autumn and it was chilly.
Haha, yes I have to admit I’d be a whole lot less tempted if it was cold – went to watch an England international friendly game with my Dad last year and it was absolutely freezing!! Much more fun in the evening warmth of Rio 🙂 The atmosphere definitely helped me stay awake! Thanks so much for stopping by Adelina 🙂
I’m not a big football (soccer to us Americans) fan, but I do love sports and I can imagine how awesome the atmosphere must be during this time so I’d probably enjoy it for that reason. Thanks for linking up to the #SundayTraveler!
I agree completely! Although I do like football/soccer, I certainly wouldn’t call myself a devoted fan but there was something so captivating about being in Rio watching live sport just a couple of months before the World Cup & it was definitely the exciting atmosphere that kept me engaged! Thanks for reading Ashley 🙂
Great post!! I love Brazil so much and now with world cup I imagine it would be the perfect time to visit!! Some day maybe.. I hope
xx
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Thanks for commenting Debbie! Just been checking out your blog – looks great! Rio was such a feel-good city and I agree, it must be so electric during world cup time – the match I saw was obviously not the same scale but a great atmosphere anyway!